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The new cosmetics: medical cannabis, peptides and probiotics at the service of beauty

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How are facial creams with innovative active ingredients and concentrates that are at the forefront of new treatments. What are they and what are the latest developments?

Skin care has come to occupy an important space in the lives of women and men. Increasingly, with the aim of looking and feeling good, as well as combating the effects of the passage of time in a natural way, they turn to experts for advice on personalized facial care routines.

Cannabidiol, also known as CBD, is one of the two most important cannabinoid components of the cannabis sativa plant
Cannabidiol, also known as CBD, is one of the two most important cannabinoid components of the cannabis sativa plant

Thus, dermocosmetic products had to overcome themselves and make use of increasingly innovative components to respond to increasingly demanding users.

By definition, dermocosmetics or dermopharmacy is the scientific discipline, a branch of pharmacy, that deals with the study and manufacture of products for topical application, both therapeutic and cosmetic. The concept is quite recent: it began to be used in the 1960s and it was from there that it became international.

So it is that for some time now, hand in hand with the studies that gave free rein to the use of cannabis medicinally, and while the National Administration of Medicines, Food and Medical Technology (Anmat) approves the first medical treatments based on from this plant, cosmetic products are added to the market.

Cannabidiol has antioxidant, soothing and moisturizing properties
Cannabidiol has antioxidant, soothing and moisturizing properties

Cannabidiol and its benefits on the skin

“Cannabidiol, also known as CBD, is one of the two most important cannabinoid components of the cannabis sativa plant,” began explaining dermatologist Andrea Giuliani (MN 96,786), who highlighted that “CBD has antioxidant, calming, and moisturizers, among others, with which, by itself, it produces an improvement for different particularities and characteristics of the skin, and could simplify the daily care routine”.

As highlighted by the specialist in Surgical Dermatology and Aesthetic Dermatology and member of the Argentine Society of Dermatology (SAD), “beyond its specific actions, CBD is a 100% natural component with a potential that has not yet been fully exploited. In addition, it is the phyto-ingredient with the greatest amount of ongoing research for its dermocosmetic use, so new findings and indications are expected.”

The dermatologist Marilina Zabalo (MN 111,660) pointed out that “CBD is one of the cannabinoids with the most studies today, which has multiple benefits on the skin” . And she listed:

They differ from serums in that they have more active ingredients
They differ from serums in that they have more active ingredients

– It is soothing: it helps to neutralize irritations, itching, burning and contributes to the recovery from skin aggressions, such as sunburn.

– Helps fight acne: research indicates that the anti-inflammatory properties of CBD help relieve pustules and comedones and reduce redness. In addition, they intervene in the healing of the marks and subsequent sequelae.

– It has antioxidant properties: this characteristic is essential in a plan that aims to reduce wrinkles and expression lines, give more light and help counteract the tendency to a reddish complexion.

– Helps in pictures of different dermatological conditions: especially eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, seborrheic and atopic dermatitis.

– The professional consensus for medical treatments with CBD establishes that the oil must be industrialized, standardized and made with good manufacturing practices, does the same happen in skin care? What are the reasons?

– Zabalo: Yes, since the way it is made will influence the quality and safety of the product. On the other hand, an industrialized product will have stability in its different items, allowing predictability in its effects.

Regarding Dermabidiol CB, the specialist pointed out that “it is the first dermocosmetic that contains CBD approved by Anmat. It is a cream with a light appearance and easy evanescence”. And among its properties, she pointed out that “it is formulated with niosomes, an advanced technology that facilitates the delivery of active ingredients to the deepest layers of the skin.”

Various daily circumstances can lead to an imbalance of the microbiota, which both at the intestinal level or on the skin can activate the immune system and generate inflammatory processes
Various daily circumstances can lead to an imbalance of the microbiota, which both at the intestinal level or on the skin can activate the immune system and generate inflammatory processes

Peptides and their antiaging and anti-inflammatory effect

If it is about innovative components of dermocosmetics, the dermatologist Lilian Demarchi (MN 88.365) highlighted peptides, as “molecules made up of amino acids, which come together to create proteins such as collagen and elastin, among others”.

And after pointing out that “they have several functions such as giving structures to the tissue, in addition to having enzymatic and ‘hormonal’ functions, that is, they are messengers”, the specialist member of the SAD pointed out: “As they are of low molecular weight, unlike proteins such as collagen can reach deep layers of the skin as serums or creams and thus regenerate its firmness”.

“There are many peptides today and more and more are being discovered with anti-aging effects, for example, collagen regeneration or anti-inflammatory activity, cell repair or decreased muscle movement, such as diaminobutyrol or argireline, which are called ‘similar to botox’ due to its tensor effect”, explained Demarchi, who recommended: “If you use an exfoliant at night or some acids such as glycolic or retinoic acids at night, the ideal is to apply the peptides in the morning since they will penetrate better with the prepared skin. They can be used on sensitive skin as their anti-inflammatory function means they do not cause irritation”.

The power of concentrated assets

Johanna Furlan is a medical specialist in Aesthetic Surgery (MN 122.975) and consulted by this means, highlighted that “concentrated active ingredients are very pure facial treatments that enhance the results of the beauty treatment routine”. “They have a great penetration capacity that enhances the effects of our treatment products,” she said. They act as intensive recuperators of the skin, since the molecules of the product even penetrate the hypodermis, which is the third layer of the skin, where other treatments cannot reach”.

They differ from serums because they have more active ingredients, this makes them more powerful and their molecules are smaller, so they have a greater penetration capacity.

About when and how the concentrates are applied, Furlan explained: “Its presentation usually comes in droppers and in small quantities; Only a few drops should be applied after facial cleansing and before the treatment product, by light touches on the entire face. Another option is to add a few drops of the concentrate directly to the cream before applying it”.

“They are easy to use, they are applied after cleaning and can be combined with each other or with other products -he reinforced-. We always recommend consultation with a professional who will indicate which one is indicated to meet the needs of the skin.

In this sense, Patricia Dermer, chemist, doctor in biological analysis (MN 1,661) and creator of Lidherma highlighted that “the latest launch of the brand consists of four active ingredients in their maximum concentration for the treatment of four specific needs of the skin”. “It is an Argireline Amplified formula, consisting of a concentrated and enhanced solution that produces muscle relaxation and visibly smooths expression wrinkles and helps increase the formation of type I collagen-she began to explain-. A Bioceramides formula, composed of an emollient solution with a high concentration of plant ceramides that repair the skin’s barrier function, in addition to softening, toning and moisturizing all skin types, especially dry and mature ones”.

The line is completed with the nicotinamide and DMAE formulas, with an antiseborrheic and soothing effect that acts around the pores and improves their appearance, and that helps redensify the skin and prevents skin aging due to its tensor effect, respectively.

Probiotics, also beneficial for the skin

“Probiotics are live microorganisms that, in adequate amounts, have a beneficial effect on health; They are present in innumerable foods, especially fermented foods such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, kimchi, etc., and allow us to keep our microbiota regulated”. This is how Avène’s dermatologist and scientific adviser, Cristina Pascutto (MN 57831), began to explain the benefits of this component, adding: “Prebiotics, on the other hand, are of plant origin and are capable of promoting the selective growth of certain intestinal bacteria healthy as Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium exerting a defense action on our body”.

And after highlighting that “various daily circumstances can lead to an imbalance called dysbiosis”, the specialist pointed out that “both at the intestinal level or on the skin it can activate the immune system and generate inflammatory processes”.

“The Avène Dermatological Laboratories have developed a new third-generation biotechnological active ingredient developed from the microbiota of its thermal water -Pascutto highlighted-. D-Sensinose™, specifically, is a new generation postbiotic active ingredient that modulates the transmission of the sensory message at the sensory neuron level and, in addition, has an immediate calming effect on all stimuli and skin sensations”.

According to the specialist, “it is an extract rich in cytoplasmic and membrane elements rich in oligosaccharides that has ultra-soothing properties to be used on reactive and intolerant skin, soothing, moisturizing and restoring skin conditions.”

A nanopolymer that multiplies by six the effectiveness of pure vitamin C

Such is the promise of one of Germaine de Capuccini’s star formulations, a treatment that nourishes the cells in depth and allows a sustained release of the active ingredients.

“The HLG patented nanopolymer is a real revolution in formulations, an exclusive patent in the cosmetics area, which represents a huge qualitative leap for the line,” explained Anabella Guassora, the brand’s technical advisor to this medium.

For her, “the main challenge of the topical route of administration of a drug or cosmetic is to overcome the biological barriers that the different layers of the skin suppose to achieve an optimal concentration of the active ingredient in the desired place of action during the time necessary to carry out their activity”. Hence the revolutionary nature of HLG, which “acts on all layers of the skin, stimulating cell metabolism and maximizing the benefits of the formula, while providing extraordinary levels of hydration.”

About its mechanisms of action, Guassora explained: “All its components (hyaluronic acid and glutamic acid intertwined with Lysine, three biocompatible, biodegradable and active ingredients in themselves) are transformed into natural molecules that can be assimilated by the skin. These new molecules hydrate and nourish the skin cells, from the surface to the dermis, improving skin metabolism and favoring a better and deeper penetration of the active ingredients. In addition, due to its sustained and prolonged release system, it achieves a long-lasting effect, since the characteristics of HLG are not those of its individual ingredients. With a single application, hydration is maintained for 36 hours”.

As a plus, “vitamin C and the rest of the ingredients reach more easily where the biological processes in which they want to intervene take place. In addition, in its journey it is capable of hydrating, stimulating metabolism, regenerating and nourishing the cells of all the layers of the stratum corneum”. “We have been able to experimentally demonstrate that the presence of HLG in our formulas represents a 600% increase in the amount of vitamin C that reaches the site of action,” she concluded.

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